Foto: Fashion Scout
“Oleme juba mõnda aega mõtteid mõlgutanud, kuidas tuua rahvusvahelise moeäri teadmised Eesti disaineriteni,” sõnab fashionavanti kaasasutaja Piret Rätsep. “Kuue aasta jooksul oleme koostööd teinud paljude Eesti moebrändidega ning ikka ja jälle toovad nad peamise kitsaskohana välja just moevaldkonna äriliste teadmiste puudumise ning oskuse, kuidas saavutada rahvusvahelist edu. Tänu EASile ja Fashion Scoutile avanes suurepärane võimalus algatada Eestis rahvusvaheline koolitusprogramm, mis keskendub just moevaldkonna eripärale ning aitab brändi ette valmistada kasvuks ning moemaastikul konkurentsis püsimiseks. Fashion Scouti näol on tegemist maailma ühe juhtivama moeplatvormiga alustavatele disaineritele ning nende ligi 20-tegutsemisaasta jooksul on aidatud rahvusvahelise eduni nii mitmedki brändid ning läbi viinud palju edukaid koolitus- ja mentorprogramme erinevates riikides. Meie eelnev positiivne koostöö Fashion Scoutiga ning Martyni ja Bilijana suur kogemus olid määravaks, miks teha antud koolitusprojekt just koostöös nendega.” Piret lisab, et Fashion Scouti eestvedajate Martyni ja Biljana näol on tegemist kirglike moeentusiastide ja moevaldkonna ekspertidega, kes on võtnud oma südameasjaks aidata just alustavaid suure potentsiaaliga disainereid üle maailma. “Meil on tõesti suur au ja rõõm nendega koostööd teha ning Eesti disainereid ülejäänud maailmale tutvustada,” lisab ta.
Edasi jätkub intervjuu Fashion Scouti asutajate Martyn Robertsi ja Biljana Poposka-Robertsiga ning seda inglise keeles, sest me ei soovi kunagi, et Portaili lehel midagi tõlkes kaduma läheks.
Martyn, Biljana, as this is Portail’s first interview with Fashion Scout, I have to ask – how did Fashion Scout come about?
Martyn: During my career in Fashion PR, I realised that emerging designers were struggling to find a professional platform to showcase their collections and provide them with support and advice to build their businesses. Addressing this gap in the market I set-up my first project in a historic London carpark, which attracted international designers as well as hugely reputable audience from the industry and media. The success of this first season proved there was a hunger for the creation of a bigger platform. In 2006 Fashion Scout was born and has showcased over 1,000 designers to date, with many growing into internationally recognised businesses.
What is the shortest way to describe what Fashion Scout is today?
Global platform empowering the future of fashion
What do you consider Fashion Scout’s biggest strength?
Our wealth of experience and international recognition with the ability to provide crucial steppingstones for emerging design talents.
From London to Paris, Ukraine and China… How do you manage it all?
Vision, passion, perseverance and lots and lots and lots of hard work!
What area is the most exciting for you at the moment – perhaps you can name countries, fashion weeks, designers that have caught your and Fashion Scout’s eye?
We recently launched Fashion Scout China which is super exciting for us. Over the years we have launched many designers from China who are now globally recognised designers, such as Angel Chan, Xiao Li, Masha Ma and we have an eye on number of emerging designers from that region.
We are also keeping an eye on the designers from Africa, Lagos Fashion Week is producing some great new designers, and of course we always have our eye on Europe – we love what Triinu Pungits and Kristel Kuslapuu from Estonia are doing, and can’t wait to be inspired by some of the new designers applying for this programme.
How much do you know about the Estonian fashion scene? Any designers you keep an eye on?
The Estonian fashion scene has been on our radar for some time now and we regularly keep an eye on the new and upcoming designers that are springing out and flourishing.
Martyn: Well for those who know me, I have a passion for big hats, so I do love GUILD. And designers Kristel Kuslapuu and Triinu Pungits have won awards at Fashion Scout – both are winners of Fashion Scout’s acclaimed “Ones To Watch” award.
In collaboration with fashionavant you are launching – for the first time – “International Accelerator Programme” in Estonia. Tell us a bit about this program.
We have worked with fashionavant team a number of times over the years with great success and we are excited about this new collaboration. Building on Fashion Scout’s extensive track record in mentoring and business accelerator programmes, for this project, together with fashionavant, we worked to create a programme that would be suitable for the Estonian emerging designers, addressing market needs.
The programme will offer eight 1,5 hour long highly informative and practical sessions by international industry experts. These experts have all had over 10 years’ experience in their respective field and have delivered session for us all over the world. The topics will cover areas that are essential for business development and growth such as financial planning, market research and trend forecasting, branding, pricing strategy, range planning, sales, marketing, and case studies. Not only do these sessions educate and inform they also provide much needed steppingstone into the international market and preparedness for it.
We are just coming out of a pandemic. What did you learn this past year and what do you think will be changed for good, fashion-wise?
Billie: I cannot say how many times we used the word “pivoting” in the past year – for us this word represents this crazy year we have had in a positive way. As we had to change and re-think the way we normally do things we learnt that adaptability is absolutely crucial to one’s success. We also learnt to slow-down, make most of the power of “local” both in design, community, and even shopping and communicate in different ways which is equally as powerful. Whilst it was challenging and our industry suffered we were also proud of the projects our team achieved, making the most of technology and power of our international networks.
Martyn: I feel that many practices we learnt over the pandemic are here to stay. The designers are producing less but of better quality. They will continue to build more personal relationships with their customers and also spend more time on continual development, exploring different avenues from manufacturing, fabrics, sustainability to positive social, divers and eco practices.
Hopefully things will eventually get more back to normal by fall. What will this upcoming season bring for you and Fashion Scout – events, fashion shows, travels?
We can’t wait for physical events to fully start again, but we predict that September will be a slow burner in UK as the government and people are still cautious and there are many uncertainties. Many of the digital learnings from the past year will be here to stay and will be integrated into our offerings. We are planning a series of hybrid physical and digital events which will be a great start to shake-up new beginnings post pandemic.
And lastly. What do you feel are 5 things that fashion designers or brands need to have today to make it big internationally?
And now, some rapid fire questions – because, why not:
Favourite restaurant in London?
Martyn: I love discovering new and exciting street food – going to Spitalfields Market, Brockley Market, Brick Lane and Box Park and uncovering new tastes and combinations.
Billie: Gunpowder – a modern Indian restaurant, in Spitalfields.
What brings a smile to your face?
Martyn: Scouting new talent and helping them achieve their dreams.
Billie: My family and sunshine.
Best career advice you’ve ever gotten?
Martyn: Follow your vision and never give up!
Billie: Believe in yourself and your talents!
Last thing you binge-watched?
Martyn: Lupin.
Billie: The Queen’s Gambit.
Last thing that made you laugh to tears?
Martyn: My eight year old son and his friends dancing to Nirvana!
Billie: Learning to paddle board on a choppy sea and falling off 100’s of times.
Tingimused ja ankeedi „International Accelerator Programme – Empowering Estonian Fashion Designers“ koolitusprogrammis osalemiseks leiab SIIT. Projekti rahastab Euroopa Regionaalarengu Fond.
Marianna on romantik, kes usaldab intuitsiooni rohkem kui reegleid ning leiab ilu nii naerukortsudes kui ka ootamatutes tehnilistes vigades. Saame tuttavaks loojaga, kes ei karda “flow-seisundis” stuudio inventari otsa komistada ega otsida tähendust ka kõige argisematest hetkedest. Autentsuse huvides avaldame intervjuu inglise keeles.
Name: Marianna Gunja or Mara
Age: 39, but 25 in heart
Location: Tallinn
Preferred camera: Canon 6d and Fujifilm XT3, but anything that shoots really
Instagram: @noxdies
Marianna, what first pulled you into photography?
You know, it was not always so easy for me to start a conversation and approach people. I was getting anxious and overthinking about what I was going to say and it was pretty scary, so at one point I realised that photography could be a way for me to come closer to a person and give us a topic to engage in. Actually, Susan Sontag wrote about this in one of her essays. When I first read it, I had this “omg, that’s me” moment. And secondly, I wanted to tell stories and build my small worlds.
You mentioned Susan Sontag’s essays helped you see photography as a way to bridge the gap between you and other people. Now that you’re experienced, do you still feel like the camera is a “shield” that helps you connect, or has it become something else entirely?
Not anymore. I realized a while ago that I needed to find a new meaning for it. The original reasoning – that the camera is a tool that gives me permission to get closer to people – is no longer the main thing. Instead, the desire to create a world is something I’ve always had. I want to dive deeper now and take on more of a creative director role.
What is it about fashion and beauty photography that excites you the most?
The collaborative moment is definitely my favourite one. Everyone is giving a part of their craft and their soul and then everything is coming together as a visual story. It’s the best feeling in the world!
How do you usually get into the right mindset before a big shoot?
I wish I could say that I do morning yoga and cold showers because it would be healthier, but actually I just walk to one of my favourite cafes to grab a cappuccino if I have time and then I put on my headphones and put some music on while I’m on my way to the shoot location. What exactly can depend a little on the mood on the shoot and on my energy levels this day, but my choices can vary from Imagine Dragons to Massive Attack or Moderat or even Noëp. Sometimes when I have a lot of random thoughts I actually start my morning by going through the mood boards for the shoot, which helps me get organised and think of some new ideas on how I can approach certain moments during the shoot.
What’s something people would be surprised to learn about what happens behind the scenes?
I guess, people don’t realise that some things might not work out as planned even though there was so much planning and prep involved. Sometimes, models feel unsure about their outfits and feel reserved while posing in them, or the outfit just doesn’t work because of their body type. Sometimes the photo equipment starts misbehaving suddenly, while everything was perfectly working a moment ago… And the only (best) thing you can do is not to be frustrated about it, keep positive for yourself and for your team and adapt. The original plan goes out the window and intuition and trust in team work take over and the most memorable moments are born.
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Also, during the shoot I can go in such a deep “flow state” that I do not see anything else beyond my subject and beauty I aim to capture. So I can be completely oblivious about my surroundings, stumble a lot physically and bump into studio equipment, walls and other objects near me. It happens a lot, so I just joke about it with my team.
Studio or shooting on location?
That’s a good question. I think it might be a seasonal thing. As we are living in a colder climate, weather is a bit unpredictable at times and some locations are hard to get, photo studios are more reliable, for sure. Yet, in the spring time I yearn for a change. So, maybe a mix?
What has been your most memorable or favourite project so far?
My favourite project is always the next one. But there have been a couple of really cool and memorable shoots all over the years. Like the first time I shot for Karmen Pedaru’s brand, it was a whole day shoot and we had a big team and a lot of things to shoot, but the energy was just so good! Secondly, last autumn’s shoot with Hannes Rüütel was something I enjoyed a lot and the story he had in mind for it was quite unexpected. And if I would pick an oldie but goodie, I would pick my first jewellery shoot ever for Hyrv, where we had two models portraying a mom and a daughter. There was just something so sincere and simply beautiful about it.
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Which do you lean towards more – fashion or beauty?
I like the playfulness in fashion, but if we are talking about meanings behind every image, fashion can be more complex and the language of beauty is more universal. I am also a dreamer and a romantic at heart, so I am always looking for beauty everywhere, even in mundane situations.
Is there a person, face, or type of character you’ve been dreaming of capturing?
I have been involved a lot in shooting model tests for some of Estonian modelling agencies for the last couple of years. I am pretty grateful for that time, because I learned a lot about the industry outside our country, but at the same time I think it left me yearning for something different. I think more mature characters, with smile wrinkles in the corner of their eyes and a bit of devilish mischief can be my type of therapy at the moment.
And to finish – what’s a phrase you often use to sign off your emails?
There are two versions. To the people I want to connect with and make something beautiful together, it’s “Hope to hear from you soon”. Because I truly do! And to the people who know me, it would be “Best wishes” or “Love, M”.
Üks Kräshi külalistest on An-Marlen, kes kohtub festivalil noorte muusikahuviliste ja alustavate muusikutega, et jagada oma teekonda muusikani ning vastata nende küsimustele. Sündmuse eel avanes Portailil erakordne võimalus temaga juttu teha nii lapsepõlve esimestest muusikaelamustest, emakeeles loomise julgusest kui ka sellest, miks ei pea esimesed katsetused kohe laulude moodi olema.
An-Marlen, kui mõtled enda lapsepõlvele, siis milline oli see esimene muusikaline elamus, mis jäi kuidagi eriti selgelt meelde?
Vanemad viisid mind väiksena päris palju erinevaid etendusi vaatama ja kontserte kuulama ja võiksin erilisi mälestusi neist nimetada mitmeid. Kuulasin tollel ajal palju Eesti muusikat ja armastasin väga teatrimaailma. Kõige erilisema ma tooksin aga välja ajast, kui sain vanemana oma lemmikartiste välismaale kuulama minna. Teismeeast lemmikuks saanud Jorja Smithi nägin päris mitu korda, aga kõige eredamalt on meeles Londoni O2 live, mille piletid sain sünnipäevaks. Teda kuulates sain aru, kui väga ma armastan muusikat ja seda tunnet, kui saan ära tunda end kellegi teise loomingus. Kontserdil seda kõike kogeda on kuidagi eriti eriline.
Kas sul oli lapsena või teismelisena mõni artist, laul, plaat või kontsert, mis pani sind esimest korda tundma, et muusika võib olla ka sinu tee?
See oli kindlasti Inese “15 magamata ööd”. Kuulasin üldse väiksena palju CD-plaate. Sellel oli mingi oma võlu. Kuulasin palju ka Maarja-Liis Ilusa ja Liisi Koiksoni plaate. Mäletan, kuidas oma toas kõva häälega kaasa laulsin.
Popmuusikat nähakse sageli väga särava ja valmis vormina, aga selle taga on palju otsimist, katsetamist ja vahel ka ebakindlust. Mida oleksid tahtnud kuulda hetkel, kui ise alles alustasid?
Ma ütleks, et mul on olnud võrdlemisi pikk teekond leidmaks ennast artistina. Oma teed alustasin tehes ingliskeelset muusikat ja eesti keeles loomiseks pidin ma pikalt julgust koguma ja hoogu võtma. Täna ei kujutaks ma ennast teistmoodi ettegi. Armastan luua emakeeles muusikat ja tuua uut kõla meie maastikule. Naljakal kombel võiksin öelda, et ebakindlust tunnen ma pigem praegu rohkem, kui seda võib-olla algusaastatel. Mäletan, et uskusin enda muusikasse südamest ja teadsin, et see leiab oma kuulajad. Täna on mu jaoks saanud oluliseks areneda ja kasvada oma muusikas ja see tekitab omamoodi ebakindlust. Nooremana olin võib-olla hulljulgem ja teekonna alguses sain oma ebaõnnestumisi peita. Nüüd pean ikka ja jälle endale meelde tuletama, et loome sündis alati selle nautimisest ja kõike elus ei tasu liiga tõsiselt võtta. Usun, et oluline on nii ennast kui ka teisi uskuma panna, et unistama peab suurelt ja peame alati uskuma sellesse, mida teeme ja armastame.
Kui sa saaksid anda ühe nõuande nooremale An-Marlenile, kes alles avastab oma häält, kirjutamist ja lavalist kohalolu, siis mis see oleks?
Ma sooviks, et pisike An-Marlen naudiks kõiki neid samme, katsumusi, otsimist ja õnnestumisi. Vahel tunnen, et tehes on siht ainult järgmiste asjade suunas ja jääb märkamata, kuidas väiksed ja suured soovid täituvad.
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Sind tunnustati Eesti Muusikaauhindadel aasta naisartistina. Kuidas sa ise seda teekonda tajud – kas see tundub pigem suure hüppena, järjepideva töö loomuliku jätkuna või millegi kolmandana?
See on minu jaoks tohutult suur tunnustus ja kuigi mul on seljataga väga pikk tee, tundub see mulle pigem ikka väga suure hüppena. Olles pisikesest saadik käinud Muusikaauhindu vaatamas, tundub see kõik väga sürreaalne. Ma ei osanud seda tõesti isegi ette kujutada, vaid pigem lihtsalt tegin alati seda, mida armastasin ja see on toonud mu siia. Ei ole midagi ilusamat, kui olla tunnustatud oma loome eest.
Millal tekkis sul tunne, et artistiks olemine ei tähenda ainult laulmist või lugude kirjutamist, vaid ka tervikliku maailma loomist – koos heli, visuaalide, lavaoleku ja stiiliga? Kui teadlikult sa mõtled oma artistimaailma visuaalsele poolele?
Ma arvan, et see on artistiks olemise juures üks kõige olulisemaid asju. See on käinud minu muusikaga käsikäes algusest peale. Minu jaoks on see justkui võimalus minu kuulajal olla osa minu pisikesest mullist, mida saan kildude haaval jagada ja see on selle kõige suurem võlu.
Portaili lugejat huvitab ka moe ja muusika kokkupuutepunkt. Kui teadlikult sa mõtled lavale või avalikkuse ette minnes riietusest kui osast oma artistikeelest?
Mul on nii hea meel, et nad puutuvad või isegi käivad käsikäes. Ma ei arva, et see on ainult osa artistiks olemisest, vaid meist kõigist. Mood annab mulle palju suurema võime ennast väljendada ja inimestega jagada. Ilma üheta ei oleks minu jaoks teist.
Kas sul on enne lavale minekut mõni kindel rituaal, harjumus või mõte, mis aitab end õigesse seisundisse viia?
Lavad on kogu aeg erinevad ja igaüks on omamoodi ja mulle meeldib selles kohaneda. Mul on küll üks lemmikpõhjus, miks ma armastan esinemist. Minu lemmikhetk on see kontserdil, kui publik on lõpuks täielikult sinuga. See on iga kord erinev, võtab erinevalt kaua aega, vahel on terve publik juba esimesest loost sinuga kaasas, vahel läheb selleks aega terve live. Aga see on alati üks kindel moment, mis paneb mind niivõrd eriliselt tundma. Saan tänu oma muusikale inimestega üheks.
Mis annab sulle kõige rohkem energiat pärast intensiivset perioodi – vaikus, sõbrad, loodus, mõni täiesti muusikaväline tegevus?
Pere ja sõbrad, ideaalis Hiiumaal suvekodus.
Milline on sinu ideaalne vaba päev, kui kalendris ei ole proovi, esinemist ega stuudiot?
Kui mul on võimalus Hiiumaal olla, siis ideaalsemat kirjeldust sellele ei olekski. Olgu seal kas soe või külm, kas ma kütan ahju ja joon teed või päevitan ja käin rannas, kõik sealne on idüll. Aga kui see vaba päev peaks juhtuma Tallinnas, siis ma käiksin kindlasti trennis, sööksin head toitu ja mängiksin sõpradega lauamänge.
Kräshi kontekstis on oluline julgustada lapsi ja noori mitte ainult kuulama, vaid ka ise proovima. Mida soovitaksid noorele inimesele, kes tahab muusikat teha, aga ei tea veel, kust alustada või ei julge oma esimesi katsetusi teistele näidata?
Mind julgustasid ja inspireerisid muusikat tegema minu lemmikartistid ja sõbrad, kes armastasid muusikat ja loomist sama palju kui mina. Väga palju kirjutasin ka üksi muusikat. Esimesed 100 ei olnud veel laulu moodigi, aga need innustasid mind alati uusi kirjutama ja muusikat kuulama, millest inspiratsiooni saada ja sõpradega jagada.
An-Marleniga saavad noored muusikahuvilised kohtuda ja vestelda juba 31. mail Tallinna laste jazzifestivalil Kräsh, mis toimub tänavu PROTO avastustehases Noblessneris. Jazzkaare ja UNESCO muusikalinn Tallinna koostöös sündinud festival ühendab kontserdid, töötoad, kohtumised muusikutega ja PROTO põnevad eksponaadid. Esinevad Curly Strings koos Mudilaskoor Ellerheinaga, Valter Soosalu koos Kadri Voorandiga ning noortekollektiivid. Kogu programmi kohta saab lugeda Kräshi kodulehel.
