Copenhagen weather is always unpredictable
The weather in Copenhagen is always unpredictable, so I start preparing for Fashion Week several weeks in advance. First, I choose the outfits, find and order missing items, create an event schedule, and figure out which look will suit which event. Last August, I was running around Copenhagen buying extra socks and a scarf to stay warm, but this August, I could have easily sunbathed. Sunny weather is always nice, of course, and everything would have been fine, but my outfits consisted mainly of cardigans, jackets, and… coats.
Copenhagen street style is very organic
I love that the style of Copenhagen residents looks very organic. It doesn’t appear overdone or forced, and no one tries to look too prestigious or serious. On the contrary, unusual combinations, lots of vintage, grunge, and eclectic color schemes make the city one big colorful salad. Everyday style is adapted for cycling, as literally everyone uses a bike. Even I had to use a bike once to get from one show to another.
Opera, sport, location!
For me, Copenhagen Fashion Week started with the Opéra Sport show in an insanely beautiful location on the waterfront, right next to the opera house. The collection was inspired by the Exillion Garden – its nature and architecture – and was translated into the brand’s aesthetic.
Walk with your eyes open
I like to use public transport or walk between events. Usually, during the journey, I find a couple of new showrooms along the way, and this is a great opportunity for me to get acquainted with new small local brands outside of Fashion Week’s official schedule.
Don’t forget the presentations
In addition to the shows, Fashion Week hosts many presentations, which are also a great opportunity to get to know small local brands. For example, I was invited to an event at Migliorini Venue vol. 9, which showcased not only Danish but also other Scandinavian, French, and Austrian brands. There, I learned about brands like Souliers Martinez and Published By. These are brands I will definitely continue to work with as a personal stylist.
You need to look closer!
Copenhagen Fashion Week differs from others in that they use innovative materials and techniques for working with fabrics and set goals for sustainable development. That’s why I was very impressed by the STAM brand presentation, where traditional materials formed the basis of the collection but were reinterpreted with a new weaving technique developed by designer Sarah Brunnhuber. It looks incredibly complex, but the clothes remain wearable, authentic, and have an ethnic flair. You can admire the collection from afar, but you only fully immerse yourself when you go behind the scenes. After the presentation, I managed to listen to Sarah Brunnhuber talk about creating the collection, go backstage and see the preparation process, mood boards, and even touch and examine the clothes. This is why I love presentations – the opportunity to talk to the designer and see the clothes up close.
Leave some room for piece and quiet
In the evening, after a busy day of attending three shows and three presentations, meeting brand representatives, guests, taking photos, and constantly being on the move, I want to have dinner in peace and quiet. For this, I have a few favorite places that I visit every time I’m in the city – Cantina, Bæst, Mirabelle, Apollo Bar, or I simply grab a pita with falafel at Garbanzo (I like to think it’s my secret place).
It’s all about the concept
I really like that in Copenhagen, brands pay attention not only to the clothes and collections themselves but also conceptually design presentations – choosing new locations, themes, and snacks that create a lasting impression at the event.
That little piece of Østerbro…
The Baum und Pferdgarten show took place on a football field, surrounded by beautiful buildings in the Østerbro district. The venue perfectly matched the idea of the collection and looked as harmonious as possible – the brand combined elements of office style with the dynamics of sportswear. And the bags in the shape of a ball seemed like a great alternative to the “pigeon bag” from JW Anderson. Now I definitely want one, along with a T-shirt saying “Østerbro”!
Copenhagen is my great love
I truly love how Copenhagen buzzes during fashion week – the entire fashion community comes together, and you can see some absolutely crazy outfits. Even though I work with clothes every day, I cannot help but be amazed at how guests come up with all these bright and extravagant combinations. Every time I go through CPHFW street style photo reports, I save what impresses me the most. As a rule, I always pay more attention to the “real” looks that are not too theatrical but have their own twist. Copenhagen is my great love! It’s real, stylish, positive, and unafraid of change – and that makes it truly a modern fashion capital.
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Make sure to follow @kate.chekan in Instagram!
All photos are courtesy of Katerina Chekan.
Marianna on romantik, kes usaldab intuitsiooni rohkem kui reegleid ning leiab ilu nii naerukortsudes kui ka ootamatutes tehnilistes vigades. Saame tuttavaks loojaga, kes ei karda “flow-seisundis” stuudio inventari otsa komistada ega otsida tähendust ka kõige argisematest hetkedest. Autentsuse huvides avaldame intervjuu inglise keeles.
Name: Marianna Gunja or Mara
Age: 39, but 25 in heart
Location: Tallinn
Preferred camera: Canon 6d and Fujifilm XT3, but anything that shoots really
Instagram: @noxdies
Marianna, what first pulled you into photography?
You know, it was not always so easy for me to start a conversation and approach people. I was getting anxious and overthinking about what I was going to say and it was pretty scary, so at one point I realised that photography could be a way for me to come closer to a person and give us a topic to engage in. Actually, Susan Sontag wrote about this in one of her essays. When I first read it, I had this “omg, that’s me” moment. And secondly, I wanted to tell stories and build my small worlds.
You mentioned Susan Sontag’s essays helped you see photography as a way to bridge the gap between you and other people. Now that you’re experienced, do you still feel like the camera is a “shield” that helps you connect, or has it become something else entirely?
Not anymore. I realized a while ago that I needed to find a new meaning for it. The original reasoning – that the camera is a tool that gives me permission to get closer to people – is no longer the main thing. Instead, the desire to create a world is something I’ve always had. I want to dive deeper now and take on more of a creative director role.
What is it about fashion and beauty photography that excites you the most?
The collaborative moment is definitely my favourite one. Everyone is giving a part of their craft and their soul and then everything is coming together as a visual story. It’s the best feeling in the world!
How do you usually get into the right mindset before a big shoot?
I wish I could say that I do morning yoga and cold showers because it would be healthier, but actually I just walk to one of my favourite cafes to grab a cappuccino if I have time and then I put on my headphones and put some music on while I’m on my way to the shoot location. What exactly can depend a little on the mood on the shoot and on my energy levels this day, but my choices can vary from Imagine Dragons to Massive Attack or Moderat or even Noëp. Sometimes when I have a lot of random thoughts I actually start my morning by going through the mood boards for the shoot, which helps me get organised and think of some new ideas on how I can approach certain moments during the shoot.
What’s something people would be surprised to learn about what happens behind the scenes?
I guess, people don’t realise that some things might not work out as planned even though there was so much planning and prep involved. Sometimes, models feel unsure about their outfits and feel reserved while posing in them, or the outfit just doesn’t work because of their body type. Sometimes the photo equipment starts misbehaving suddenly, while everything was perfectly working a moment ago… And the only (best) thing you can do is not to be frustrated about it, keep positive for yourself and for your team and adapt. The original plan goes out the window and intuition and trust in team work take over and the most memorable moments are born.
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Also, during the shoot I can go in such a deep “flow state” that I do not see anything else beyond my subject and beauty I aim to capture. So I can be completely oblivious about my surroundings, stumble a lot physically and bump into studio equipment, walls and other objects near me. It happens a lot, so I just joke about it with my team.
Studio or shooting on location?
That’s a good question. I think it might be a seasonal thing. As we are living in a colder climate, weather is a bit unpredictable at times and some locations are hard to get, photo studios are more reliable, for sure. Yet, in the spring time I yearn for a change. So, maybe a mix?
What has been your most memorable or favourite project so far?
My favourite project is always the next one. But there have been a couple of really cool and memorable shoots all over the years. Like the first time I shot for Karmen Pedaru’s brand, it was a whole day shoot and we had a big team and a lot of things to shoot, but the energy was just so good! Secondly, last autumn’s shoot with Hannes Rüütel was something I enjoyed a lot and the story he had in mind for it was quite unexpected. And if I would pick an oldie but goodie, I would pick my first jewellery shoot ever for Hyrv, where we had two models portraying a mom and a daughter. There was just something so sincere and simply beautiful about it.
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Which do you lean towards more – fashion or beauty?
I like the playfulness in fashion, but if we are talking about meanings behind every image, fashion can be more complex and the language of beauty is more universal. I am also a dreamer and a romantic at heart, so I am always looking for beauty everywhere, even in mundane situations.
Is there a person, face, or type of character you’ve been dreaming of capturing?
I have been involved a lot in shooting model tests for some of Estonian modelling agencies for the last couple of years. I am pretty grateful for that time, because I learned a lot about the industry outside our country, but at the same time I think it left me yearning for something different. I think more mature characters, with smile wrinkles in the corner of their eyes and a bit of devilish mischief can be my type of therapy at the moment.
And to finish – what’s a phrase you often use to sign off your emails?
There are two versions. To the people I want to connect with and make something beautiful together, it’s “Hope to hear from you soon”. Because I truly do! And to the people who know me, it would be “Best wishes” or “Love, M”.
„Riia moenädalal seni kõige mahukama kollektsiooni esitlemine oli võimas kogemus ning pinget ja ootamatusi ühes positiivse energiaga jagus hommikutundidest õhtuni välja,” jagas Hannes Rüütel Portailile värskeid emotsioone. „Senine publiku tagasiside kinnitab, et suutsime stilist Kristin Liiase ja animaator Sander Joonega anda edasi tervikliku emotsiooni kevadisest kergusest, mängulisusest ja magusast suveootusest.”
14.–18. aprillini toimunud Riga Fashion Weekil jõudis lavale 26 Hannes Rüüteli loodud komplekti – seni tema mahukaim moenädalal esitletud tervik. Kollektsioon sidus brändile omase tugevama, tumedama ja vormikindlama poole kergema ning suvisema meeleoluga: jäigemad materjalid ja selged lõiked kohtusid romantilisemate detailide, kirsimotiivide, lipsukeste ja peente satsidega. Just selle pehmema liini kaudu astus lavale ka brändi esimene ametlik naistekollektsioon, ehkki HANNES RÜÜTELi looming on ka varem kandnud selget unisex-hoiakut. Nagu disaineri varasemate suuremate ülesastumiste puhul, aitas kollektsiooni lavakeelt vormida stilist Kristin Liias, kelle käekiri toetas terviku omapära ja tunnetust.
Vaata galeriist backstage-fotosid viimastest hetkedest enne, kui HANNES RÜÜTELi uus kollektsioon Riga Fashion Weeki lavale jõudis!
Loe ka Hannese intervjuud, mille ta Portailile vahetult enne Riia moenädalat andis, siit!
