Copenhagen weather is always unpredictable
The weather in Copenhagen is always unpredictable, so I start preparing for Fashion Week several weeks in advance. First, I choose the outfits, find and order missing items, create an event schedule, and figure out which look will suit which event. Last August, I was running around Copenhagen buying extra socks and a scarf to stay warm, but this August, I could have easily sunbathed. Sunny weather is always nice, of course, and everything would have been fine, but my outfits consisted mainly of cardigans, jackets, and… coats.
Copenhagen street style is very organic
I love that the style of Copenhagen residents looks very organic. It doesn’t appear overdone or forced, and no one tries to look too prestigious or serious. On the contrary, unusual combinations, lots of vintage, grunge, and eclectic color schemes make the city one big colorful salad. Everyday style is adapted for cycling, as literally everyone uses a bike. Even I had to use a bike once to get from one show to another.
Opera, sport, location!
For me, Copenhagen Fashion Week started with the Opéra Sport show in an insanely beautiful location on the waterfront, right next to the opera house. The collection was inspired by the Exillion Garden – its nature and architecture – and was translated into the brand’s aesthetic.
Walk with your eyes open
I like to use public transport or walk between events. Usually, during the journey, I find a couple of new showrooms along the way, and this is a great opportunity for me to get acquainted with new small local brands outside of Fashion Week’s official schedule.
Don’t forget the presentations
In addition to the shows, Fashion Week hosts many presentations, which are also a great opportunity to get to know small local brands. For example, I was invited to an event at Migliorini Venue vol. 9, which showcased not only Danish but also other Scandinavian, French, and Austrian brands. There, I learned about brands like Souliers Martinez and Published By. These are brands I will definitely continue to work with as a personal stylist.
You need to look closer!
Copenhagen Fashion Week differs from others in that they use innovative materials and techniques for working with fabrics and set goals for sustainable development. That’s why I was very impressed by the STAM brand presentation, where traditional materials formed the basis of the collection but were reinterpreted with a new weaving technique developed by designer Sarah Brunnhuber. It looks incredibly complex, but the clothes remain wearable, authentic, and have an ethnic flair. You can admire the collection from afar, but you only fully immerse yourself when you go behind the scenes. After the presentation, I managed to listen to Sarah Brunnhuber talk about creating the collection, go backstage and see the preparation process, mood boards, and even touch and examine the clothes. This is why I love presentations – the opportunity to talk to the designer and see the clothes up close.
Leave some room for piece and quiet
In the evening, after a busy day of attending three shows and three presentations, meeting brand representatives, guests, taking photos, and constantly being on the move, I want to have dinner in peace and quiet. For this, I have a few favorite places that I visit every time I’m in the city – Cantina, Bæst, Mirabelle, Apollo Bar, or I simply grab a pita with falafel at Garbanzo (I like to think it’s my secret place).
It’s all about the concept
I really like that in Copenhagen, brands pay attention not only to the clothes and collections themselves but also conceptually design presentations – choosing new locations, themes, and snacks that create a lasting impression at the event.
That little piece of Østerbro…
The Baum und Pferdgarten show took place on a football field, surrounded by beautiful buildings in the Østerbro district. The venue perfectly matched the idea of the collection and looked as harmonious as possible – the brand combined elements of office style with the dynamics of sportswear. And the bags in the shape of a ball seemed like a great alternative to the “pigeon bag” from JW Anderson. Now I definitely want one, along with a T-shirt saying “Østerbro”!
Copenhagen is my great love
I truly love how Copenhagen buzzes during fashion week – the entire fashion community comes together, and you can see some absolutely crazy outfits. Even though I work with clothes every day, I cannot help but be amazed at how guests come up with all these bright and extravagant combinations. Every time I go through CPHFW street style photo reports, I save what impresses me the most. As a rule, I always pay more attention to the “real” looks that are not too theatrical but have their own twist. Copenhagen is my great love! It’s real, stylish, positive, and unafraid of change – and that makes it truly a modern fashion capital.
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All photos are courtesy of Katerina Chekan.
Tänavusel Kuldnõela galal tunnustati kuut Eesti moedisainis silma paistnud loojat. Kuldnõel antakse disainerile arvestades tema viimase viie aasta loomingulist järjepidevust ja saavutusi, Hõbenõel tõstab esile viimasel aastal jõuliselt esile kerkinud tegijat. Tänavuse Kuldnõela nominendid olid Lilli Jahilo, Karl Korsar ja Maria Tammeorg ning Kuldnõela viis koju Karl Korsar. „Panin uude kollektsiooni selle, mis on minu kui disaineri käekiri ja tugevus – mustrid, värvid, mängulisus. Olen Kuldnõela üle õnnelik, sest see on ühtlasi tunnustuseks kogu minu tööle,“ rääkis Karl Korsar.
Karl Korsar tõi galal publiku ette kollektsiooni „Spectrum Renaissance“, mille keskmes olid erksad toonid ja spetsiaalselt loodud tekstiilid. „Tahtsin värvi abil tuua argipäeva rohkem julgust, helgust ja mängulisust. Selleks valmistasime kangad ise, katsetades kudumise, trükkimise ja plisseerimisega, et leida värskeid vorme ning uusi siluette,“ selgitas disainer.
Hõbenõelale kandideerisid Britten Pärkson, Mari Lemet ja Sille Randviir ning Hõbenõela vääriliseks tunnistati Mari Lemet. „Olen äärmiselt rõõmus Hõbenõela võidu ja saadud tunnustuse üle. Minu jaoks oli tegemist eelkõige enda proovilepanekuga – teha midagi, mida armastan, ja seda koos tiimiga, kellega nii backstage’is kui midagi luues on alati väga hea tunne,“ rääkis Mari Lemet.
Mari Lemet andis oma kollektsioonis kehalise väljenduse emotsionaalsele murdepunktile. „Mind huvitas hetk, mil tunded paisuvad üle pea ja mõtete loogika hakkab hajuma. Püüdsin vormida selle sisemise pinge skulptuurseteks siluettideks ning käsitsi valmistatud detailideks.“
Kuldnõela žüriis olid eelmise aasta võitja Kirill Safonov, moeajakirjanikud Urmas Väljaots ja Kristina Herodes, Tallinna Kaubamaja moevaldkonna kaubandusjuht Kätlin Häninen, Hõbenõela omanik Karl-Christoph Rebane, kunstnik Aet Alev-Kilg ja ajakirja Eesti Naine moetoimetaja Anu Merila. Lõplikuks otsuse langetamiseks liitusid žüriiga Arne Niit, kellel endalgi Kuldnõel, ja kunstnik Liivia Leškin.
„Just erinevad loojakäekirjad annavad Eesti moele selle erilise näo. Meie disainerid ei piirdu trendide järgimisega, vaid otsivad järjekindlalt oma väljenduslaadi, ühendades värsked ideed oskusega luua rõivaid, mis kõnetavad ka pärast ühe hooaja möödumist,“ ütleb Tallinn Fashion Weeki peakorraldaja Anu Kikas. „Tallinn Fashion Week on enamat kui järjestikused moeetendused. See on koht, kus loojad ja publik saavad vahetult kokku, kollektsioonid ärkavad laval ellu ning ideed saavad tagasisidet. Iga etendus toob esile loojate isikupärased ideed ja annab publikule võimaluse neist vahetult osa saada. Just sellised kohtumised annavad Eesti moele hoogu ja aitavad sellel jõuda uute inimesteni.“
Moenädala avaõhtu kulmineerub traditsioonilise Kuldnõela galaga, kus jagatakse Eesti moekunsti hinnatumaid tunnustusi. Kuldnõelaga pärjatakse disainerit, kelle looming on viimase viie aasta jooksul eriliselt silma paistnud, Hõbenõelaga aga viimase aasta jooksul jõuliselt esile tõusnud moeloojat. Alates 1996. aastast välja antav Kuldnõel on kujunenud Eesti moeelu üheks olulisemaks auhinnaks. Tallinn Fashion Week toimub Anu Kikase eestvedamisel alates 2007. aastast.
Tänavu kandideerivad Kuldnõelale Lilli Jahilo, Karl Korsar ja Maria Tammeorg.
Hõbenõela nominendid on Britten Pärkson, Mari Lemet ja Sille Randviir.
Tutvu sügisese Tallinn Fashion Weeki programmiga tfw.ee.
