Sleek animal print, hand-crafted details and unexpected colour combinations – this is By Malene Birger’s pre-spring 2025 collection. “With unpredictable seasons and fluctuating temperatures, I wanted this collection to feel simple, uncomplicated and light. I focussed on adaptable styles that can be layered up or down, as well as feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, bohemian details and rich colours. And I have a taste for animal print again, given a sophisticated spin for a modern, composed woman,” says creative director Maja Dixdotter.

Portail is always more than happy to dig even deeper – so, we asked Maja few questions about the collection.

Last season you were inspired by a perfume you discovered in New York. Where did you begin for pre-spring 2025?

I wanted pre-spring 2025 to feel very simple and uncomplicated, with a focus on lightness. I spent a lot of time in Paris earlier in the year speaking to buyers and discussing how unpredictable weather is making seasonality such a difficult thing to nail these days. Even in Scandinavia, which is typically very cold in winter, we will have mild days in February and snow storms in April. With temperatures fluctuating all over the world, our customer needs their wardrobe to be adaptable and versatile, with lighter pieces that can be layered up or down. I also focused on feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, fun prints, unexpected details and rich colours.

Tell us about the colour palette and signature textures?

I tried to think about colour along the same lines as fabric weight – they needed to feel versatile. Festive for the winter period, but also fresh enough for warmer weather. I got very excited about the new colour combination of buttery yellow and caramel with a pop of tomato red. There’s a great silk monogrammed scarf that sums up the feeling. And I felt like experimenting with animal print – leopard, zebra, crocodile-embossed leather – in a way that would feel super sophisticated and subtle.

What kind of materials were on your fabric swatch board?

I wanted to capture unexpected combinations when it came to texture: slippery satin and crafted Thai silk, paired with textured wools, fluffy viscose, faux fur and leather. I also wanted that feeling of pieces that had been lovingly crafted by hand. Some of my personal highlights include a beautiful Thai silk dress with handmade flower appliqués, a loose-knit poncho with handwoven pompoms, and a leather jacket with whip-stitched trims.

 

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On that note, what are some of the collection’s key pieces?

Key pieces are easy to wear and quite straightforward. The leopard-print maxi coat is a hero – something about leopard just feels right again. The mohair cardigan-coat is very cosy and cut like a morning robe, so you can layer up for the coldest days. The bouclé-wool poncho I mentioned is similarly versatile, a cute layer you can slip on and off. For evening, the off- the-shoulder zebra jacquard dress is really cool – it’s in a woven viscose knit that supports the body. I love the tomato-red maxi kimono dress, it’s very slinky and wafts as you walk. And in accessories, the velvet ballerina with a monogrammed toe is a fun new style.

What about the one piece you personally can’t wait to wear?

I can’t stop wearing the sample of the double-faced wool blazer. It has a nice detail of several loops to fasten it at the waist. You can either thread the tie through one loop for a clean wrap silhouette, or pull it through multiple loops to create a ruched effect. Clean or decorative, depending on your mood. And I’m so happy we’ve re-released the fluffy Tiana sandals in a new black colourway, as I wear the beige ones all the time.

Re-working past-season styles and building timeless wardrobe foundations is a key part of By Malene Birger’s sustainable strategy – can you unpack that a little further?

We have targets we want to hit when it comes to more sustainable fibres and we’re always looking at fabric innovations. But a sustainable mindset is also important at a design level, with pieces that you can wear in lots of different ways for many years to come. For pre-spring 2025, we tried to include re-runs of existing shapes and silhouettes and rework them with more creative fabric choices. This is partly so that customers can always find the pieces they love and that fit them every season, but also because it cuts down on the sampling process which can be wasteful. I also like to add details that allow pieces to feel more versatile, such as the double-faced wool blazer that can be tied in different ways. More than anything I want the collections to be concise, with a small edit of newness that complements rather than overwhelms our existing By Malene Birger wardrobe.

Discover the collection in the gallery above. In Tallinn you can find By Malene Birger’s collections at Kaubamaja department store.

Alustame uut nädalat kurbade uudistega. Itaalia moelooja Valentino Garavani lahkus meie seast 93-aastasena. Üks 20. sajandi mõjukamaid moedisainereid suri rahulikult oma kodus Roomas, olles ümbritsetud lähedaste armastusest.

1932. aastal Lombardias sündinud Valentino Garavani asutas oma moemaja 1959. aastal ning tõusis kiiresti samasse suurusjärku selliste nimedega nagu Giorgio Armani ja Karl Lagerfeld. Tema käekiri oli äratuntav: laitmatu rätsepatöö, rõhutatud siluetid ja kompromissitu elegants. Erilise koha moelooja pärandis on saanud ka kuulus “Valentino punane” – värv, millest kujunes terve brändi sümbol ja mille inspiratsioon pärines Hispaania reisilt. Tema loomingut on aastakümnete jooksul kandnud nii Hollywoodi ikoonid kui ka poliitilised suurkujud – nende seas Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Julia Roberts, Gwyneth Paltrow ja paljud teised.

Enne oma moemaja rajamist õppis Valentino Pariisis Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne’is ning töötas selliste suurkujude juures nagu Jacques Fath, Balenciaga ja Guy Laroche. 2007. aastal esitles ta oma viimast kollektsiooni, mille finaalis kandsid kõik modellid punaseid kleite – sümboolne kummardus värvile, mis saatis teda kogu karjääri vältel. Veel 2023. aastal pälvis moelegend Briti moeauhindadel elutööpreemia, mis kinnitas tema staatust kui üht viimastest moe suurmeistritest.

Alates 2024. aastast on Valentino moemaja loovjuhiks Alessandro Michele.

Lihtne vastus: sest see on üks neist haruldastest moeleidudest, mis tundub korraga nii praktiline kui ka täiesti effortlessly chic. Väike kootud kolmnurksall on vaikselt, ent väga kindlalt teinud endale koha tänavutalvises moepildis – ja seda täiesti põhjusega. Selle võlu peitub lihtsuses ja mitmekülgsuses: sama sall võib ühel päeval olla hooletult pea ümber seotud, teisel päeval õlgadele visatud ning kolmandal hoopis vööks talje ümber seotud. 

Kolmnurksall lisab riietusele ka vormi, tekstuuri ja kihilisust – just neid pisidetaile, mis muudavad lihtsa komplekti huvitavaks. See on ideaalne viimane lihv klassikalisele outfit’ile: piisavalt tagasihoidlik, et mitte üle mängida, kuid samas piisavalt efektne, et pilk peatuma jääks. Natuke Pariisi, natuke vanaema kudumikorvi nostalgiat ja paras annus tänavamoes nähtud muretut šikki.

Ja kui sinulgi tekib tunne, et just nüüd oleks aeg üks selline oma garderoobi lisada, siis oleme su eest juba eeltöö ära teinud. Portail on kokku kogunud oma lemmikud kootud ja villased kolmnurksallid – parima valiku leiad galeriist!