Sleek animal print, hand-crafted details and unexpected colour combinations – this is By Malene Birger’s pre-spring 2025 collection. “With unpredictable seasons and fluctuating temperatures, I wanted this collection to feel simple, uncomplicated and light. I focussed on adaptable styles that can be layered up or down, as well as feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, bohemian details and rich colours. And I have a taste for animal print again, given a sophisticated spin for a modern, composed woman,” says creative director Maja Dixdotter.

Portail is always more than happy to dig even deeper – so, we asked Maja few questions about the collection.

Last season you were inspired by a perfume you discovered in New York. Where did you begin for pre-spring 2025?

I wanted pre-spring 2025 to feel very simple and uncomplicated, with a focus on lightness. I spent a lot of time in Paris earlier in the year speaking to buyers and discussing how unpredictable weather is making seasonality such a difficult thing to nail these days. Even in Scandinavia, which is typically very cold in winter, we will have mild days in February and snow storms in April. With temperatures fluctuating all over the world, our customer needs their wardrobe to be adaptable and versatile, with lighter pieces that can be layered up or down. I also focused on feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, fun prints, unexpected details and rich colours.

Tell us about the colour palette and signature textures?

I tried to think about colour along the same lines as fabric weight – they needed to feel versatile. Festive for the winter period, but also fresh enough for warmer weather. I got very excited about the new colour combination of buttery yellow and caramel with a pop of tomato red. There’s a great silk monogrammed scarf that sums up the feeling. And I felt like experimenting with animal print – leopard, zebra, crocodile-embossed leather – in a way that would feel super sophisticated and subtle.

What kind of materials were on your fabric swatch board?

I wanted to capture unexpected combinations when it came to texture: slippery satin and crafted Thai silk, paired with textured wools, fluffy viscose, faux fur and leather. I also wanted that feeling of pieces that had been lovingly crafted by hand. Some of my personal highlights include a beautiful Thai silk dress with handmade flower appliqués, a loose-knit poncho with handwoven pompoms, and a leather jacket with whip-stitched trims.

 

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On that note, what are some of the collection’s key pieces?

Key pieces are easy to wear and quite straightforward. The leopard-print maxi coat is a hero – something about leopard just feels right again. The mohair cardigan-coat is very cosy and cut like a morning robe, so you can layer up for the coldest days. The bouclé-wool poncho I mentioned is similarly versatile, a cute layer you can slip on and off. For evening, the off- the-shoulder zebra jacquard dress is really cool – it’s in a woven viscose knit that supports the body. I love the tomato-red maxi kimono dress, it’s very slinky and wafts as you walk. And in accessories, the velvet ballerina with a monogrammed toe is a fun new style.

What about the one piece you personally can’t wait to wear?

I can’t stop wearing the sample of the double-faced wool blazer. It has a nice detail of several loops to fasten it at the waist. You can either thread the tie through one loop for a clean wrap silhouette, or pull it through multiple loops to create a ruched effect. Clean or decorative, depending on your mood. And I’m so happy we’ve re-released the fluffy Tiana sandals in a new black colourway, as I wear the beige ones all the time.

Re-working past-season styles and building timeless wardrobe foundations is a key part of By Malene Birger’s sustainable strategy – can you unpack that a little further?

We have targets we want to hit when it comes to more sustainable fibres and we’re always looking at fabric innovations. But a sustainable mindset is also important at a design level, with pieces that you can wear in lots of different ways for many years to come. For pre-spring 2025, we tried to include re-runs of existing shapes and silhouettes and rework them with more creative fabric choices. This is partly so that customers can always find the pieces they love and that fit them every season, but also because it cuts down on the sampling process which can be wasteful. I also like to add details that allow pieces to feel more versatile, such as the double-faced wool blazer that can be tied in different ways. More than anything I want the collections to be concise, with a small edit of newness that complements rather than overwhelms our existing By Malene Birger wardrobe.

Discover the collection in the gallery above. In Tallinn you can find By Malene Birger’s collections at Kaubamaja department store.

H&M avalikustas, et juba käesoleva kuu lõpus näeb ilmavalgust koostöökollektsioon Belgia moelooja Glenn Martensiga. Brändi sõnul on tegemist kollektsiooniga, mis toob Martensi julge ja eksperimentaalse käekirja laiema publikuni.

Glenn Martens, kes on tuntud oma loomingulise lähenemise ja mängulisuse poolest (eriti Y/Projecti disainide kaudu), on H&M-iga loodud kollektsiooni kujundanud nagu “rõivaperekonna” – mitmekülgsete esemete kogumi, millel on mitu nägu ja kasutusviisi. Mahukas kollektsioon hõlmab nii naiste-, meeste- kui ka unisex-rõivaid ja aksessuaare, kus tavapärased rõivad – T-särgid, jakid ja teksad – on saanud ootamatult uue vormi läbi vormitavate materjalide ja skulpturaalsete siluettide.

“Ma näen seda kollektsiooni kui suurt rõivaperekonda, mille igal liikmel on mitu iseloomu ja eesmärki – nagu inimestelgi, nad muutuvad iga päev. Olen alati huvitatud rõivastest, mida me päriselt kanname, ning just see mõte sai selle erilise projekti lähtepunktiks,” räägib Glenn Martens.

Kampaania, mille peaosalisteks on Joanna Lumley ja Richard E. Grant, toob Martensi iseloomuliku huumori ja briti stiiliviited eredalt esile – justkui pöörane perekonnaportree, mis tähistab individuaalsust ja eneseväljendust.

Tutvu kollektsiooniga galeriis!

H&M x Glenn Martens koostöö lansseeritakse 30. oktoobril valitud H&M kauplustes ja veebipoes hm.com.

Kui õhk muutub jahedaks ja valgus pehmemaks, hakkab ehetes mängima uus intensiivsus. Tänavused sügistalvised ehtetrendid on julged ja emotsionaalsed – need toovad moepilti kulla sooja kuma, skulpturaalse vormi dramaatika, värvide glamuuri ja tähenduslike talismanide maagia. Goldtime’i valik teeb kõik need mõjutused kättesaadavaks ka siin, põhjamaa valguses.

Allpool leiad ehetetrendid, mis iseloomustavad sügist 2025 – ja mis panevad iga ehtelaeka uuel hooajal särama.

Kollane kuld on tagasi, suurejooneliselt 

Sügise kõige mõjusam trend räägib vormist – ja mahust. Kui viimased hooajad kuulusid minimalistlikule hõbedale, siis nüüd on aeg tagasi pöörduda kulda: sooja, sügava ja enesekindla. Kullatoonides moeehted on muutunud suuremaks, julgemaks ja on isegi veidi “puhvis” – justkui oleks ehe teinud sügava hingetõmbe. Sif Jakobsi uue kollektsiooni voolavad siluetid ja Aleksandr Veni arhitektuursed disainid tõestavad, et ehe võib olla sama ekspressiivne kui kunstiteos. Sarnast energiat kannab ka Eesti disainer Sigrid Kuusk, kelle skulpturaalsed vormid sulanduvad kuldse soojusega ühte.

Värvid, mis soojendavad

Sügise värvipalett peegeldub ka ehetes. Kui pruun ja kollane loovad klassikalise, vaoshoitud luksuse, siis roosa ja punane toovad kaasa energiat ja sära. Swarovski on sel sügisel taaskord tõestamas, et “rohkem on rohkem” – eriti, kui kombineerida ühes ehtes mitu vääriskivi ja tooni. Roosa ja punane koos on ootamatu, kuid erakordselt mõjuv duett, eriti kui see sobitada see rõivamoes valitseva burgundiapunasega. Värvilised vääriskivid annavad ka klassikalisele kullale uue elu – ja muudavad iga detaili isikupäraseks pilgupüüdjaks.

Talismanide energia

Kui ehe võiks rääkida, jutustaks see sel sügisel mitmeid lugusid. Nullindate boho-võbe on tagasi – kihiti kantavad kuldehted, loomaripatsid, taimemotiivid ja sodiaagisümbolid. Kõik see on natuke nostalgiline, natuke müstiline ja täielikult isiklik.

Thomas Sabo ja Fossil pakuvad rikkalikult talismane neile, kes soovivad kanda oma lugu, samas kui Eesti bränd Flame annab võimaluse kombineerida eri elemente just nii, nagu hing ihkab. Ja kui süda tõmbab romantilisema suuna poole, siis puhvis südamed on selle hooaja pehmeim viis armastust väljendada.

Leia oma selle sügise ehtetrendid Goldtime esinduspoodides, kus kuni 19. oktoobrini on kõik vääriskiviga kuldehted -25%. Goldtime’i värskeimad kollektsioonid on väljas ka Tallinn Fashion Weekil, mis leiab aset 22.–24. oktoobril.