Foto: By Malene Birger

MAJA DIXDOTTER introduces By Malene Birger’s pre-spring 2025 collection

Sleek animal print, hand-crafted details and unexpected colour combinations – this is By Malene Birger’s pre-spring 2025 collection. “With unpredictable seasons and fluctuating temperatures, I wanted this collection to feel simple, uncomplicated and light. I focussed on adaptable styles that can be layered up or down, as well as feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, bohemian details and rich colours. And I have a taste for animal print again, given a sophisticated spin for a modern, composed woman,” says creative director Maja Dixdotter.

Portail is always more than happy to dig even deeper – so, we asked Maja few questions about the collection.

Last season you were inspired by a perfume you discovered in New York. Where did you begin for pre-spring 2025?

I wanted pre-spring 2025 to feel very simple and uncomplicated, with a focus on lightness. I spent a lot of time in Paris earlier in the year speaking to buyers and discussing how unpredictable weather is making seasonality such a difficult thing to nail these days. Even in Scandinavia, which is typically very cold in winter, we will have mild days in February and snow storms in April. With temperatures fluctuating all over the world, our customer needs their wardrobe to be adaptable and versatile, with lighter pieces that can be layered up or down. I also focused on feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, fun prints, unexpected details and rich colours.

Tell us about the colour palette and signature textures?

I tried to think about colour along the same lines as fabric weight – they needed to feel versatile. Festive for the winter period, but also fresh enough for warmer weather. I got very excited about the new colour combination of buttery yellow and caramel with a pop of tomato red. There’s a great silk monogrammed scarf that sums up the feeling. And I felt like experimenting with animal print – leopard, zebra, crocodile-embossed leather – in a way that would feel super sophisticated and subtle.

What kind of materials were on your fabric swatch board?

I wanted to capture unexpected combinations when it came to texture: slippery satin and crafted Thai silk, paired with textured wools, fluffy viscose, faux fur and leather. I also wanted that feeling of pieces that had been lovingly crafted by hand. Some of my personal highlights include a beautiful Thai silk dress with handmade flower appliqués, a loose-knit poncho with handwoven pompoms, and a leather jacket with whip-stitched trims.

 

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On that note, what are some of the collection’s key pieces?

Key pieces are easy to wear and quite straightforward. The leopard-print maxi coat is a hero – something about leopard just feels right again. The mohair cardigan-coat is very cosy and cut like a morning robe, so you can layer up for the coldest days. The bouclé-wool poncho I mentioned is similarly versatile, a cute layer you can slip on and off. For evening, the off- the-shoulder zebra jacquard dress is really cool – it’s in a woven viscose knit that supports the body. I love the tomato-red maxi kimono dress, it’s very slinky and wafts as you walk. And in accessories, the velvet ballerina with a monogrammed toe is a fun new style.

What about the one piece you personally can’t wait to wear?

I can’t stop wearing the sample of the double-faced wool blazer. It has a nice detail of several loops to fasten it at the waist. You can either thread the tie through one loop for a clean wrap silhouette, or pull it through multiple loops to create a ruched effect. Clean or decorative, depending on your mood. And I’m so happy we’ve re-released the fluffy Tiana sandals in a new black colourway, as I wear the beige ones all the time.

Re-working past-season styles and building timeless wardrobe foundations is a key part of By Malene Birger’s sustainable strategy – can you unpack that a little further?

We have targets we want to hit when it comes to more sustainable fibres and we’re always looking at fabric innovations. But a sustainable mindset is also important at a design level, with pieces that you can wear in lots of different ways for many years to come. For pre-spring 2025, we tried to include re-runs of existing shapes and silhouettes and rework them with more creative fabric choices. This is partly so that customers can always find the pieces they love and that fit them every season, but also because it cuts down on the sampling process which can be wasteful. I also like to add details that allow pieces to feel more versatile, such as the double-faced wool blazer that can be tied in different ways. More than anything I want the collections to be concise, with a small edit of newness that complements rather than overwhelms our existing By Malene Birger wardrobe.

Discover the collection in the gallery above. In Tallinn you can find By Malene Birger’s collections at Kaubamaja department store.

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Foto: Miu Miu

“Miu Miu tüdruk” Kylie Jenner

Kylie Jennerist on ametlikult saanud Miu Miu girl – vähemalt viitab sellele moemaja uus sügis/talv 2025 reklaamkampaania. Kui varasemalt on Miu Miu esindamise au kuulunud pigem õele Kendall Jennerile, siis tundub, et nüüd on Kylie kord rambivalgusesse astuda.

Kuigi paljude jaoks tuli säärane otsus üllatusena, siis tegelikult on Kylie Jenneri suhe tippmoega viimastel aastatel ainult süvenenud – tema kontole kuuluvad kampaaniad nii Acne Studios kui ka Jean Paul Gaultier moemajadega, lisaks astus ta üles Coperni moeetendusel. Seega polegi ehk Miu Miu radarile jõudmine nii suur ootamatus.

Kõnealuses kampaanias poseerib Jenner koos muusiku Towa Birdi, näitlejate Lou Doilloni, Rila Fukushima ja Myhalaga, modelli Yura Romaniuki ning räppari Cortisa Stariga.

Vaata pilte Jennerist Miu Miu kampaanias galeriist!

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Foto: Havaianas

7 põnevat fakti maailma populaarseima plätubrändi kohta

Kui rääkida suvest, rannast ja muretust olemisest, siis kerkib paljudele silme ette üks kindel detail – värvilised, kerged ja ajatud Havaianase plätud. Brasiiliast pärit bränd on tõusnud tagasihoidlikust algusest tõeliseks ikooniks, mida kantakse nii liivarannas kui ka moenädalatel. Siin on seitse põnevat fakti, mis teevad Havaianasest enamat kui lihtsalt plätupaar.

1. Juured ulatuvad Jaapanisse

Esimene Havaianase mudel sündis 1962. aastal ja oli inspireeritud Jaapani traditsioonilistest zōri-sandaalidest. Zōri’dele iseloomulik riisiteraline muster kandus üle ka Havaianase kummitallale, millest on saanud brändi äratuntav tunnusmärk.

2. Nimi viitab Havaile

Kuigi Havaianas on sündinud Brasiilias, viitab selle nimi hoopis Havaile – „havaianas“ tähendab portugali keeles… „hawailane“. See peegeldab elujaatavat, murevaba ja troopilist elustiili, mida bränd juba algusest peale kehastab.

3. Pea iga brasiillane ostab vähemalt ühe paari aastas

Brändi populaarsus kodumaal on peaaegu müstiline – hinnanguliselt ostab iga kolmas brasiillane aastas vähemalt ühe paari Havaianase plätusid. Kokku müüakse Brasiilias igal aastal üle 200 miljoni paari. Brändi kohta on isegi öeldud: „Havaianas is the official uniform of all Brazilians.“

4. Moerevolutsioon 1990ndatel

Algusaastatel peeti Havaianaseid pigem tööjalanõudeks, mida kanti maal ja kodus. 1990ndatel tehti aga brändile põhjalik uuenduskuur: tootevalikusse ilmusid uued värvid, mustrid ja mudelid, mis muutsid plätud trendikaks moeaksessuaariks.

5. Kõik kannavad Havaianaseid

Tänaseks on Havaianased esindatud enam kui 100 riigis ning nad on palju enamat kui lihtsalt rannaplätud. Need sobivad linnatänavatele, festivalidele ja isegi moenädalatele.

6. Disainikoostööd tippmoemärkidega

Läbi aastate on Havaianas teinud koostööd mitme luksusmärkide ja disaineriga, sealhulgas Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni ja taanlaste ROTATE. Kusjuures, just Kopenhaageni moenädal oli esimesi, kus Havaianased tänavamoepilti ilmusid ja seeläbi (taaskord) viraalseks läksid.

7. Ka kuulsuste lemmik

Jennifer Lopez, Gigi Hadid, Reese Witherspoon ja paljud teised on märgatud Havaianaseid kandmas nii vabal ajal kui ka reisidel. Plätud on saanud sümboliks lõõgastusest, stiilist ja lihtsast, ent läbimõeldud maitsest.

Seega, Havaianas pole lihtsalt jalanõu – see on elustiil. Pole siis ime, et see lihtne plätu on kasvanud kultusobjektiks, mida tuntakse ja armastatakse kogu maailmas.

Eestis ootavad Havaianased avastamist Tallinna ja Tartu Kaubamajas, samuti veebipoes kaubamaja.ee!

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