10 thoughts Katerina Chekan had during CPHFW

Katerina Chekan is a personal stylist, blogger, and founder of the educational project Cultura.Moda. Currently based in Tallinn, Estonia, and as a friend of Portail, Katerina kindly agreed to share with us her thoughts from her recent visit to Copenhagen for, of course, Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Copenhagen weather is always unpredictable

The weather in Copenhagen is always unpredictable, so I start preparing for Fashion Week several weeks in advance. First, I choose the outfits, find and order missing items, create an event schedule, and figure out which look will suit which event. Last August, I was running around Copenhagen buying extra socks and a scarf to stay warm, but this August, I could have easily sunbathed. Sunny weather is always nice, of course, and everything would have been fine, but my outfits consisted mainly of cardigans, jackets, and… coats.

Copenhagen street style is very organic

I love that the style of Copenhagen residents looks very organic. It doesn’t appear overdone or forced, and no one tries to look too prestigious or serious. On the contrary, unusual combinations, lots of vintage, grunge, and eclectic color schemes make the city one big colorful salad. Everyday style is adapted for cycling, as literally everyone uses a bike. Even I had to use a bike once to get from one show to another.

Opera, sport, location!

For me, Copenhagen Fashion Week started with the Opéra Sport show in an insanely beautiful location on the waterfront, right next to the opera house. The collection was inspired by the Exillion Garden – its nature and architecture – and was translated into the brand’s aesthetic.

Walk with your eyes open

I like to use public transport or walk between events. Usually, during the journey, I find a couple of new showrooms along the way, and this is a great opportunity for me to get acquainted with new small local brands outside of Fashion Week’s official schedule.

Don’t forget the presentations

In addition to the shows, Fashion Week hosts many presentations, which are also a great opportunity to get to know small local brands. For example, I was invited to an event at Migliorini Venue vol. 9, which showcased not only Danish but also other Scandinavian, French, and Austrian brands. There, I learned about brands like Souliers Martinez and Published By. These are brands I will definitely continue to work with as a personal stylist.

You need to look closer!

Copenhagen Fashion Week differs from others in that they use innovative materials and techniques for working with fabrics and set goals for sustainable development. That’s why I was very impressed by the STAM brand presentation, where traditional materials formed the basis of the collection but were reinterpreted with a new weaving technique developed by designer Sarah Brunnhuber. It looks incredibly complex, but the clothes remain wearable, authentic, and have an ethnic flair. You can admire the collection from afar, but you only fully immerse yourself when you go behind the scenes. After the presentation, I managed to listen to Sarah Brunnhuber talk about creating the collection, go backstage and see the preparation process, mood boards, and even touch and examine the clothes. This is why I love presentations – the opportunity to talk to the designer and see the clothes up close.

Leave some room for piece and quiet

In the evening, after a busy day of attending three shows and three presentations, meeting brand representatives, guests, taking photos, and constantly being on the move, I want to have dinner in peace and quiet. For this, I have a few favorite places that I visit every time I’m in the city – Cantina, Bæst, Mirabelle, Apollo Bar, or I simply grab a pita with falafel at Garbanzo (I like to think it’s my secret place).

It’s all about the concept

I really like that in Copenhagen, brands pay attention not only to the clothes and collections themselves but also conceptually design presentations – choosing new locations, themes, and snacks that create a lasting impression at the event.

That little piece of Østerbro… 

The Baum und Pferdgarten show took place on a football field, surrounded by beautiful buildings in the Østerbro district. The venue perfectly matched the idea of the collection and looked as harmonious as possible – the brand combined elements of office style with the dynamics of sportswear. And the bags in the shape of a ball seemed like a great alternative to the “pigeon bag” from JW Anderson. Now I definitely want one, along with a T-shirt saying “Østerbro”!

Copenhagen is my great love

I truly love how Copenhagen buzzes during fashion week – the entire fashion community comes together, and you can see some absolutely crazy outfits. Even though I work with clothes every day, I cannot help but be amazed at how guests come up with all these bright and extravagant combinations. Every time I go through CPHFW street style photo reports, I save what impresses me the most. As a rule, I always pay more attention to the “real” looks that are not too theatrical but have their own twist. Copenhagen is my great love! It’s real, stylish, positive, and unafraid of change – and that makes it truly a modern fashion capital.

 

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All photos are courtesy of Katerina Chekan.

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Tallinn Fashion Week
Foto: Mairo Seire

Tallinn Fashion Weeki sügisene programm toob taas lavale Eesti moedisaini paremiku

Kodumaise disaini ja tippmoe austajatel on põhjust kalendrisse märkida 28.–30. oktoober: sügisene Tallinn Fashion Week toob kolme päeva jooksul publiku ette Eesti moe värskeimad suunad, tunnustatud loojad ja uued nimed. Nüüdsest on avalik ka moenädala programm.

„Eesti moe tugevus on selle omanäolisus – meil on väga erineva käekirjaga loojaid, kes ei püüa lihtsalt trende järgida, vaid kujundavad järjekindlalt omaenda visuaalset keelt. Sügisene Tallinn Fashion Week annab hea võimaluse näha, kuhu meie moekunst praegu liigub: laval kohtuvad värsked ideed, tugev autorikäekiri ja oskus luua rõivaid, millel on tähendus ka väljaspool üht hooaega,“ ütleb Tallinn Fashion Weeki peakorraldaja Anu Kikas. „Sama oluline on meie jaoks tuua disainerid ja publik päriselt kokku. Moeetendus ei ole ainult uue kollektsiooni esitlus, vaid hetk, kus looming saab konteksti, emotsiooni ja vahetu tagasiside. Just selline elav kontakt aitab Eesti moel kasvada ja jõuda uute inimesteni.“

Sügisese moenädala üheks keskseks sündmuseks on traditsiooniline Kuldnõela gala, kus antakse üle Eesti moedisaini ihaldatuimad auhinnad. Kuldnõelaga pärjatakse viimase viie aasta jooksul silma paistnud moelooja ning Hõbenõelaga tunnustatakse viimase aasta jooksul jõuliselt esile tõusnud disainerit. Kuldnõela on välja antud alates 1996. aastast ning sellest on kujunenud Eesti üks olulisemaid moeauhindu.

Tänavused Kuldnõela nominendid on Lilli Jahilo, Karl Korsar ja Maria Tammeorg.

Hõbenõelale on nomineeritud Britten Pärkson, Mari Lemet ja Sille Randviir.

Tallinn Fashion Weeki sügis 2026 programm:

Kolmapäev, 28. oktoober

19.00  Mairo Seire, Hannabel Kaal, Joanne-Heleene Sõrmus

20.30  Kaubamaja esitleb: Kuldnõel

Neljapäev, 29. oktoober

17.30  Skeleton by Auria Nurm, Kristina Oja, Althea

19.00  Sibille Maask, Iris Janvier

20.30  Siret Design, Kirill Safonov

Reede, 30. oktoober

17.30  Hertta, Peakera

19.00  Brand NO.8, Piret Kuresaar

20.30  Karl-Christoph Rebane

Uuri lisa tfw.ee.

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ALMADA
Foto: Johanna Rontu

ALMADA tegi Kopenhaagenis debüüdi, omadel tingimustel

Soome moemärk Almada on olnud meil mõttes juba mõnda aega. Nüüd andis moemärgi esimene ülesastumine Copenhagen Fashion Weekil lõpuks piisavalt hea põhjuse see nimi ka Portaili lugejatele korralikult tuttavaks teha.

Alexa Dagmari ja Linda Juhola 2020. aastal loodud Almada alustas tegelikult kudumitest, kuid on viimastel aastatel kasvanud terviklikuks ready-to-wear-märgiks, mille keskmes on põhjamaisele garderoobile üsna omane mõte: vähem, aga paremini. Kašmiir, vill, nahk ja siid saavad siin rahuliku, täpse vormi ning eesmärk pole niivõrd hooajaline uudsus kui rõivad, mille juurde saab ikka ja jälle tagasi tulla.

Möödunud nädalal Kopenhaagenis toimunud CPHFW raames otsustas Almada tavapärase moenädala loogikaga veidi nihkesse minna. Selle asemel et nagu kõik teised näidata oma 2027. aasta kevadsuvist kollektsiooni, jõudis Charlottenborgi reljeefide taustal lavale hoopis tänavune sügis/talv kollektsioon – ning vaid mõni tund hiljem sai samu esemeid brändi uuenduskuuri läbinud veebipoest ka osta. Otsus minna „see now, buy now” teed sündis asutajate sõnul nende endi kunagisest frustratsioonist: rahvusvahelistel moenädalatel nähtud ihaldusväärset eset tuli traditsiooniliselt oodata veel pool aastat. Nii mõjus Almada samm keskenduda sellele, mida saab kanda juba praegu, igati loogiliselt. Ja ehk ütleb see päris palju ka brändi enda kohta: Almada ei püüa garderoobi iga kuue kuu järel uuesti leiutada, vaid ehitab seda tasapisi edasi.

Kui aga rääkida lavale jõudnud kollektsioonist, siis see ise jäi kindlalt Almada senisele käekirjale truuks. Villast ja kašmiirist mantlid, skulpturaalsed jakid ja shearling-materjalid kohtusid voolava naha ning piimvalge siidšifooniga. Finaalis vilksatas isegi leopardimustrit – mõõdukas kõrvalepõige muidu vaoshoitud paletist. Kõike nähtut saatis Soome artisti Emmi Granlundi loodud helimaastik.

Vaata kollektsioon oma pilguga üle galeriist!

Tutvu Almada kollektsioonidega veebipoes almadalabel.com.

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