Foto: By Malene Birger
Portail is always more than happy to dig even deeper – so, we asked Maja few questions about the collection.
Last season you were inspired by a perfume you discovered in New York. Where did you begin for pre-spring 2025?
I wanted pre-spring 2025 to feel very simple and uncomplicated, with a focus on lightness. I spent a lot of time in Paris earlier in the year speaking to buyers and discussing how unpredictable weather is making seasonality such a difficult thing to nail these days. Even in Scandinavia, which is typically very cold in winter, we will have mild days in February and snow storms in April. With temperatures fluctuating all over the world, our customer needs their wardrobe to be adaptable and versatile, with lighter pieces that can be layered up or down. I also focused on feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, fun prints, unexpected details and rich colours.
Tell us about the colour palette and signature textures?
I tried to think about colour along the same lines as fabric weight – they needed to feel versatile. Festive for the winter period, but also fresh enough for warmer weather. I got very excited about the new colour combination of buttery yellow and caramel with a pop of tomato red. There’s a great silk monogrammed scarf that sums up the feeling. And I felt like experimenting with animal print – leopard, zebra, crocodile-embossed leather – in a way that would feel super sophisticated and subtle.
What kind of materials were on your fabric swatch board?
I wanted to capture unexpected combinations when it came to texture: slippery satin and crafted Thai silk, paired with textured wools, fluffy viscose, faux fur and leather. I also wanted that feeling of pieces that had been lovingly crafted by hand. Some of my personal highlights include a beautiful Thai silk dress with handmade flower appliqués, a loose-knit poncho with handwoven pompoms, and a leather jacket with whip-stitched trims.
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On that note, what are some of the collection’s key pieces?
Key pieces are easy to wear and quite straightforward. The leopard-print maxi coat is a hero – something about leopard just feels right again. The mohair cardigan-coat is very cosy and cut like a morning robe, so you can layer up for the coldest days. The bouclé-wool poncho I mentioned is similarly versatile, a cute layer you can slip on and off. For evening, the off- the-shoulder zebra jacquard dress is really cool – it’s in a woven viscose knit that supports the body. I love the tomato-red maxi kimono dress, it’s very slinky and wafts as you walk. And in accessories, the velvet ballerina with a monogrammed toe is a fun new style.
What about the one piece you personally can’t wait to wear?
I can’t stop wearing the sample of the double-faced wool blazer. It has a nice detail of several loops to fasten it at the waist. You can either thread the tie through one loop for a clean wrap silhouette, or pull it through multiple loops to create a ruched effect. Clean or decorative, depending on your mood. And I’m so happy we’ve re-released the fluffy Tiana sandals in a new black colourway, as I wear the beige ones all the time.
Re-working past-season styles and building timeless wardrobe foundations is a key part of By Malene Birger’s sustainable strategy – can you unpack that a little further?
We have targets we want to hit when it comes to more sustainable fibres and we’re always looking at fabric innovations. But a sustainable mindset is also important at a design level, with pieces that you can wear in lots of different ways for many years to come. For pre-spring 2025, we tried to include re-runs of existing shapes and silhouettes and rework them with more creative fabric choices. This is partly so that customers can always find the pieces they love and that fit them every season, but also because it cuts down on the sampling process which can be wasteful. I also like to add details that allow pieces to feel more versatile, such as the double-faced wool blazer that can be tied in different ways. More than anything I want the collections to be concise, with a small edit of newness that complements rather than overwhelms our existing By Malene Birger wardrobe.
Discover the collection in the gallery above. In Tallinn you can find By Malene Birger’s collections at Kaubamaja department store.
Kollektsioonis tähendab see eelkõige tasakaalu ranguse ja pehmuse vahel. Klassikaline rätsepatöö ja maskuliinsed triiksärgid kohtuvad läbimõeldud kudumite ning pesumoest laenatud detailidega. Tulemuseks on garderoob, mis mõjub korraga väljapeetult ja pisut sensuaalselt, kuid mitte kunagi ülepakutult.
Üheks kollektsiooni võtmeesemeks on pikk villane pintsak jõuliste õlgade, rõhutatud talje ja seljalõhikuga, mille paariliseks on madalama värvliga bootcut-püksid. Märkimist väärivad ka kõrge krae ja vööga kahepoolne villamantel ning must nahktagi, mis võtab justkui pehmema suuna, ühendades ümara õlajoone avarama siluetiga. Kudumite puhul peitub võlu väikestes detailides – nähtavates õmblustes, kõrgete kaeluste väikestes lõhikutes ja trukkides. Kollektsiooni naiselikumat poolt esindab läbikumava tüllikihiga slip-kleit, mille minimalistlikku joont täiendavad kõrge lõhik ja sisseõmmeldud voldid.
Kollektsiooni värvipalett püsib sügisele omaselt vaoshoitud: musta ja tumepruuni kõrval kohtab suitsust tumerohelist, kaerakarva valget ja kiltkivisinist. Materjalide hulgas väärivad tähelepanu vill, kašmiir, nahk, lambanahk, puuvillapopliin ja jersey.
Ja kuigi kiirmoebrändi puhul tasub väljendisse „loodud kestma” suhtuda alati teatava tähelepanelikkusega, on Studio seekordne lähenemine läbimõeldud garderoobile igati sümpaatne. Parimad kollektsiooni esemed näivad olevat need, mille hooaega polegi esmapilgul võimalik määrata – kvaliteetne mantel, hea lõikega pintsak, nahktagi või kudum, mille olemasolu kapis ei pea järgmisel sügisel (ega ühelgi teisel hooajal) uuesti põhjendama.
Tutvu H&M Studio uue kollektsiooniga galeriis!
Kollektsioon H&M Studio Essentials A/W26 jõuab valitud H&Mi kauplustesse ja veebipoodi 3. septembril.
Juba on teada, et Rousteing esitleb oma esimese Rabanne’i kollektsiooni 2027. aasta sügistalvisel Pariisi moenädalal järgmise aasta märtsis. Disaineri sõnul on liitumine Rabanne’iga tema jaoks suur au. „See on moemaja, mis on alati seadnud kahtluse alla tavapärased arusaamad ning kujundanud julgete ideede kaudu moeajalugu. Selle uuenduslikkus, meisterlikkus ja kartmatu loovus on inspireerinud põlvkondi ning inspireerivad nüüd ka mind,“ sõnas ta avalduses.
Puigi esindaja Ana Trias kirjeldas Rousteingi kui loojat, kelle käekiri on julge, magnetiline ja tihedalt seotud tänapäeva energiaga. Tema sõnul avab uus loovjuht Rabanne’i jaoks järgmise peatüki, tuues majja enesekindlust ja eneseväljendust väärtustava loomingulise nägemuse.
Rousteing kujundas Balmainis välja selgelt äratuntava esteetika, mida iseloomustasid jõulised siluetid ja rikkalikud detailid. See lähenemine võiks loomulikult haakuda ka Rabanne’i identiteediga – moemajaga, mille ajalugu on lahutamatult seotud Paco Rabanne’i futuristlike metallkleitide ning eksperimentaalse materjalikäsitlusega.
Olgu lisatud, et 40-aastane Rousteing kuulub oma põlvkonna mõjukaimate Prantsuse disainerite hulka. Kui ta 2011. aastal Balmaini loovjuhiks nimetati, sai temast noorim disainer pärast Yves Saint Laurent’d, kes oli määratud juhtima mõnda Pariisi suurt moemaja. Rabanne’i jaoks tähendab tema ametisse asumine märgilist põlvkonnavahetust ning uut võimalust tõlgendada brändi futuristlikku pärandit tänapäevases võtmes.
