Foto: By Malene Birger

MAJA DIXDOTTER introduces By Malene Birger’s pre-spring 2025 collection

Sleek animal print, hand-crafted details and unexpected colour combinations – this is By Malene Birger’s pre-spring 2025 collection. “With unpredictable seasons and fluctuating temperatures, I wanted this collection to feel simple, uncomplicated and light. I focussed on adaptable styles that can be layered up or down, as well as feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, bohemian details and rich colours. And I have a taste for animal print again, given a sophisticated spin for a modern, composed woman,” says creative director Maja Dixdotter.

Portail is always more than happy to dig even deeper – so, we asked Maja few questions about the collection.

Last season you were inspired by a perfume you discovered in New York. Where did you begin for pre-spring 2025?

I wanted pre-spring 2025 to feel very simple and uncomplicated, with a focus on lightness. I spent a lot of time in Paris earlier in the year speaking to buyers and discussing how unpredictable weather is making seasonality such a difficult thing to nail these days. Even in Scandinavia, which is typically very cold in winter, we will have mild days in February and snow storms in April. With temperatures fluctuating all over the world, our customer needs their wardrobe to be adaptable and versatile, with lighter pieces that can be layered up or down. I also focused on feminine touches and easy shapes, hand-made elements, fun prints, unexpected details and rich colours.

Tell us about the colour palette and signature textures?

I tried to think about colour along the same lines as fabric weight – they needed to feel versatile. Festive for the winter period, but also fresh enough for warmer weather. I got very excited about the new colour combination of buttery yellow and caramel with a pop of tomato red. There’s a great silk monogrammed scarf that sums up the feeling. And I felt like experimenting with animal print – leopard, zebra, crocodile-embossed leather – in a way that would feel super sophisticated and subtle.

What kind of materials were on your fabric swatch board?

I wanted to capture unexpected combinations when it came to texture: slippery satin and crafted Thai silk, paired with textured wools, fluffy viscose, faux fur and leather. I also wanted that feeling of pieces that had been lovingly crafted by hand. Some of my personal highlights include a beautiful Thai silk dress with handmade flower appliqués, a loose-knit poncho with handwoven pompoms, and a leather jacket with whip-stitched trims.

 

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On that note, what are some of the collection’s key pieces?

Key pieces are easy to wear and quite straightforward. The leopard-print maxi coat is a hero – something about leopard just feels right again. The mohair cardigan-coat is very cosy and cut like a morning robe, so you can layer up for the coldest days. The bouclé-wool poncho I mentioned is similarly versatile, a cute layer you can slip on and off. For evening, the off- the-shoulder zebra jacquard dress is really cool – it’s in a woven viscose knit that supports the body. I love the tomato-red maxi kimono dress, it’s very slinky and wafts as you walk. And in accessories, the velvet ballerina with a monogrammed toe is a fun new style.

What about the one piece you personally can’t wait to wear?

I can’t stop wearing the sample of the double-faced wool blazer. It has a nice detail of several loops to fasten it at the waist. You can either thread the tie through one loop for a clean wrap silhouette, or pull it through multiple loops to create a ruched effect. Clean or decorative, depending on your mood. And I’m so happy we’ve re-released the fluffy Tiana sandals in a new black colourway, as I wear the beige ones all the time.

Re-working past-season styles and building timeless wardrobe foundations is a key part of By Malene Birger’s sustainable strategy – can you unpack that a little further?

We have targets we want to hit when it comes to more sustainable fibres and we’re always looking at fabric innovations. But a sustainable mindset is also important at a design level, with pieces that you can wear in lots of different ways for many years to come. For pre-spring 2025, we tried to include re-runs of existing shapes and silhouettes and rework them with more creative fabric choices. This is partly so that customers can always find the pieces they love and that fit them every season, but also because it cuts down on the sampling process which can be wasteful. I also like to add details that allow pieces to feel more versatile, such as the double-faced wool blazer that can be tied in different ways. More than anything I want the collections to be concise, with a small edit of newness that complements rather than overwhelms our existing By Malene Birger wardrobe.

Discover the collection in the gallery above. In Tallinn you can find By Malene Birger’s collections at Kaubamaja department store.

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GANNI
Foto: GANNI

GANNI ja lululemon kohtuvad 1980ndates

Taani moebränd GANNI ja Kanada spordirõivaste tootja lululemon on ühendanud jõud, et tuua spordirõivastesse veidi Kopenhaagenile omast mängulisust. 22 esemest koosnev koostöökollektsioon ammutab inspiratsiooni 1980. aastate tantsufilmidest ning uurib moe, liikumise ja eneseväljenduse kokkupuutepunkte.

Kollektsioon ise ühendab lululemoni tehnilised materjalid ja funktsionaalsed lõiked GANNI äratuntava disainikeelega. Spordirõivastele annavad uue ilme leopardimustrid, kontrastsed värvikombinatsioonid ja volangid. Lisaks lululemoni tuntud Define Jacketi jakile leiab valikust tantsumaailmast inspireeritud sääresoojendajaid, booleroid ja peapaelu. Tulemuseks on rõivad, mille kasutusvõimalused – GANNIle omaselt – ei piirdu üksnes treeningsaaliga.

Koostööga kaasneva „Joy Is A Power Move” kampaania keskmes on näitleja Jennifer Beals ja laulja-tantsija METTE. Tantsustuudios üles võetud kampaaniafilm viitab 1980. aastate tantsukultuurile, käsitledes liikumist eelkõige isikliku väljendusviisina.

Brändide sõnul peegeldab GANNI ja lululemoni koostöö ühtlasi spordi- ja igapäevarõivaste vaheliste piiride jätkuvat hägustumist. Kollektsioon jõuab müügile 15. oktoobril mõlema brändi veebipoodides.

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Uniqlo
Foto: Uniqlo

Jätkuvalt meeldiv Uniqlo x JW Anderson

Uniqlo ja JW Andersoni koostöö on üks neist moemaailma püsisuhetest, mille puhul ei teki küsimust, kas järjekordne ühiskollektsioon on vajalik. Pigem vastupidi – Jonathan Andersoni oskus anda argistele rõivaesemetele veidi ootamatu iseloom sobib Jaapani rõivahiiu praktilise mõttelaadiga jätkuvalt suurepäraselt.

Uniqlo x JW Anderson sügis/talv 2026. aasta kollektsioon ammutab inspiratsiooni akadeemilisest maailmast, teatrist ja kunstilisest eneseväljendusest. Tulemuseks on kergelt nostalgiline, ent tänapäevaselt mõjuv garderoob, milles kohtuvad Briti ülikoolilinnakute esteetika, mängulised mustrid ja mõnusalt vabad lõiked.

Uuest kollektsioonist leiab lühema lõikega avaraid jakke, pehmeid tepitud ülerõivaid, V-kaelusega kudumeid ja klassikalisi kootud veste. Tähelepanu väärivad ka asümmeetriline plisseeritud seelik ning jahedamateks ilmadeks mõeldud fliisjakk. Komplekti täiendavad mütsid, sokid ja kotid.

Nagu varasemateski koostöödes, peitub kollektsiooni võlu eelkõige selle kantavuses. Anderson ei püüa argirõivastust üleliia keeruliseks muuta, vaid lisab tuttavatele esemetele parasjagu karakterit. Ja just see on põhjus, miks Uniqlo x JW Anderson jätkuvalt meeldib.

Kollektsioon ise jõuab müügile juba 15. oktoobril.

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