10 thoughts Katerina Chekan had during CPHFW

Katerina Chekan is a personal stylist, blogger, and founder of the educational project Cultura.Moda. Currently based in Tallinn, Estonia, and as a friend of Portail, Katerina kindly agreed to share with us her thoughts from her recent visit to Copenhagen for, of course, Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Copenhagen weather is always unpredictable

The weather in Copenhagen is always unpredictable, so I start preparing for Fashion Week several weeks in advance. First, I choose the outfits, find and order missing items, create an event schedule, and figure out which look will suit which event. Last August, I was running around Copenhagen buying extra socks and a scarf to stay warm, but this August, I could have easily sunbathed. Sunny weather is always nice, of course, and everything would have been fine, but my outfits consisted mainly of cardigans, jackets, and… coats.

Copenhagen street style is very organic

I love that the style of Copenhagen residents looks very organic. It doesn’t appear overdone or forced, and no one tries to look too prestigious or serious. On the contrary, unusual combinations, lots of vintage, grunge, and eclectic color schemes make the city one big colorful salad. Everyday style is adapted for cycling, as literally everyone uses a bike. Even I had to use a bike once to get from one show to another.

Opera, sport, location!

For me, Copenhagen Fashion Week started with the Opéra Sport show in an insanely beautiful location on the waterfront, right next to the opera house. The collection was inspired by the Exillion Garden – its nature and architecture – and was translated into the brand’s aesthetic.

Walk with your eyes open

I like to use public transport or walk between events. Usually, during the journey, I find a couple of new showrooms along the way, and this is a great opportunity for me to get acquainted with new small local brands outside of Fashion Week’s official schedule.

Don’t forget the presentations

In addition to the shows, Fashion Week hosts many presentations, which are also a great opportunity to get to know small local brands. For example, I was invited to an event at Migliorini Venue vol. 9, which showcased not only Danish but also other Scandinavian, French, and Austrian brands. There, I learned about brands like Souliers Martinez and Published By. These are brands I will definitely continue to work with as a personal stylist.

You need to look closer!

Copenhagen Fashion Week differs from others in that they use innovative materials and techniques for working with fabrics and set goals for sustainable development. That’s why I was very impressed by the STAM brand presentation, where traditional materials formed the basis of the collection but were reinterpreted with a new weaving technique developed by designer Sarah Brunnhuber. It looks incredibly complex, but the clothes remain wearable, authentic, and have an ethnic flair. You can admire the collection from afar, but you only fully immerse yourself when you go behind the scenes. After the presentation, I managed to listen to Sarah Brunnhuber talk about creating the collection, go backstage and see the preparation process, mood boards, and even touch and examine the clothes. This is why I love presentations – the opportunity to talk to the designer and see the clothes up close.

Leave some room for piece and quiet

In the evening, after a busy day of attending three shows and three presentations, meeting brand representatives, guests, taking photos, and constantly being on the move, I want to have dinner in peace and quiet. For this, I have a few favorite places that I visit every time I’m in the city – Cantina, Bæst, Mirabelle, Apollo Bar, or I simply grab a pita with falafel at Garbanzo (I like to think it’s my secret place).

It’s all about the concept

I really like that in Copenhagen, brands pay attention not only to the clothes and collections themselves but also conceptually design presentations – choosing new locations, themes, and snacks that create a lasting impression at the event.

That little piece of Østerbro… 

The Baum und Pferdgarten show took place on a football field, surrounded by beautiful buildings in the Østerbro district. The venue perfectly matched the idea of the collection and looked as harmonious as possible – the brand combined elements of office style with the dynamics of sportswear. And the bags in the shape of a ball seemed like a great alternative to the “pigeon bag” from JW Anderson. Now I definitely want one, along with a T-shirt saying “Østerbro”!

Copenhagen is my great love

I truly love how Copenhagen buzzes during fashion week – the entire fashion community comes together, and you can see some absolutely crazy outfits. Even though I work with clothes every day, I cannot help but be amazed at how guests come up with all these bright and extravagant combinations. Every time I go through CPHFW street style photo reports, I save what impresses me the most. As a rule, I always pay more attention to the “real” looks that are not too theatrical but have their own twist. Copenhagen is my great love! It’s real, stylish, positive, and unafraid of change – and that makes it truly a modern fashion capital.

 

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Kuldnõela
Foto: Sille Randviir | Greete Raudsepp.

Selgusid tänavused Kuldnõela ja Hõbenõela nominendid

2026. aasta moesügise üks olulisemaid hetki on saanud täna varakult selgema kuju: avalikuks on tehtud tänavused Kuldnõela ja Hõbenõela nominendid.

Sügisesel Kuldnõela galal antakse välja Eesti moevälja mainekaim tunnustus. Kuldnõelaga pärjatakse disainer, kelle looming on viimase viie aasta jooksul silma paistnud järjepidevuse, autorikäekirja ja mõjuga. Hõbenõel seevastu toob esile viimase aasta jooksul esiletõusnud looja. Alates 1996. aastast välja antav Kuldnõel on kujunenud Eesti moedisaini keskseks auhinnaks.

Tänavused Kuldnõela nominendid on Lilli Jahilo, Karl Korsar ja Maria Tammeorg. Hõbenõela nominendid on Britten Pärkson, Mari Lemet ja Sille Randviir.

Kuldnõela nominentideks on kolm väga eriilmeline autorit. Lilli Jahilo on aastate jooksul kujundanud selgelt äratuntava, põhjamaise tunnetusega moemaailma, milles kohtuvad modernsus, ajatundlikkus ja naiselik enesekindlus. Karl Korsar paistab silma oma värviküllase ja mängulise visuaalse universumiga, kus olulisel kohal on digiprint, julgus ning isikupärane tekstiilikäsitlus. Maria Tammeorg on aga liikunud käsitöömahukast esteetikast üha küpsema ja suurlinlikuma väljenduseni, ühendades detailitundlikkuse ja tugeva moenägemuse.

Hõbenõela nominentidest on Britten Pärksoni loomingus esil minimalism, tasakaal ja peen materjalitunnetus. Mari Lemet tegutseb veenvalt moe- ja ehtekunsti piiril, tuues oma töödesse tugeva narratiivi ja omanäolise visuaalse keele. Sille Randviir on projektiga Puue ning eriti möödunud aasta kollektsiooniga „Kaos” kinnistanud end autorina, kelle looming ühendab tundlikkuse, noorusliku jõulisuse ja dekonstrueeritud vormikeele.

Tänavuse Kuldnõela žüriisse kuuluvad moeekspert Urmas Väljaots, Postimehe elustiilitoimetuse ja digiajakirjade juht Kristina Herodes, kunstnik Aet Alev, moekunstnik ja Hõbenõel 2023 võitja Karl-Christoph Rebane, Kaubamaja ostujuht Kätlin Häninen, ajakirja Eesti Naine moetoimetaja Anu Merila, moekunstnik ja Kuldnõel 2024 võitja Kirill Safonov.

Kui Kuldnõel ja Hõbenõel jagatakse sügisese Tallinn Fashion Weeki raames, siis kevadise Tallinn Fashion Weeki programmiga saad tutvuda siin.  

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Foto: Ann Müürsepp | Sandra Luks.

5 noort disainerit ühendavad Tallinn Fashion Weekil jõud

Karl-Christoph Rebane, Sandra Luks, Susanna Belinda Kõgel, Ann Müürsepp ja Anne Liis Laikjõe ühendavad sel kevadel jõud, et tuua 9. aprillil Tallinn Fashion Weeki lavale etendus “Juurtetu”.

Disainerite idee koos luua kasvas välja tundest, kus kõik tahtsid midagi teha, kuid mitte üksinda. “Olles kõik sarnasel ajal Eesti Kunstiakadeemia lõpetanud, on teed jäänud tahes-tahtmata ristuma ning usaldus ja hool üksteise vastu kasvama. Oleme võtnud eesmärgiks luua viie kollektsiooni asemel ühe, küsitlemata üksteise valikuid või perspektiive, mis sellises loomeprotsessis tundub ainuõige,” tutvustavad noored loojad koostöö algust ja etenduse telgitaguseid.

Kollektsiooni pealkiri ja temaatika koorus suuresti välja ühel detsembri õhtul Standardi maja stuudios vesteldes ja heietades. Anne Liis tõi välja oma tunded teemal juurtetus – kuidas tema jaoks oli mõjunud oma lahkunud ema poolikuks jäänud jaki leidmine. Seesama jakk sai ka Tallinn Fashion Weeki moelava etenduste jaoks disaineri poolt ümberkujundatud ja lõpetatud.

Disainer Karl-Christoph Rebane leiab, et koostöö suurimaks komistuskiviks võib saada viimane nädal enne lava, sest tavaliselt on kõik aidanud üksteist üle lõpusirge, kuid sel korral on kõik rakkes ja kohati enda eest. “Sandra ja minu ühismuusa Ann on ka seekord lava taga – eks näis, mis ja kelle seljas siis lavale jõuab. Kolmel meist (Anne Liis, Ann, Susanna Belinda) on disaineritena moenädala lavadebüüt – ma usun, et see värskus aitabki kevadel tärgata!” kostab Karl-Christoph.

Viie moelooja etendus leiab Tallinn Fashion Weeki raames aset neljapäeval, 9.aprillil kell 17.30. Piletid saadaval Piletitaskus.

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